As old as the road to Rome
Fermenting trendy? Christian Weij thinks it's a nice development but also has a bit of a laugh about it. He is one of the food pioneers who has put fermenting on the map in the Netherlands and beyond, and has been endlessly curious about culinary trends and developments from a young age. "But actually, this method is as old as the road to Rome. Our ancestors discovered centuries ago that meat stays preserved longer by salting it, and that preserving vegetables and fruits not only has a conserving function but also enhances the taste." Yet Christian understands the renewed enthusiasm for fermenting. Not only among chefs and specialists in the global food industry he often works with but also among the 'ordinary' consumer. “More and more people are taking a step back, are fed up with the use of chemical additives and preservatives, and are interested in what nature has to offer. It's very much alive because once you come into contact with the beauty and versatility of microorganisms, you realize it's an important part of everything that lives – including our own bodies. Moreover, it's just super fun, safe, and easy to do. And very sustainable.”
What exactly is fermenting?
First, back to the basics. What exactly is fermenting? Christian explains: "Fermenting is the controlled rotting of vegetables, fruits, meat, fish, and dairy to make it last longer, more digestible, or even edible. Two rules are important: use enough salt and ensure no oxygen gets to the product by using an airtight jar. The microorganisms naturally present – such as lactic acid bacteria, molds, and yeasts – will grow due to moisture and warmth, and then produce certain enzymes that change the acidity, smell, appearance, and shelf life of a product. "It's very healthy, on many levels," he says. "For example, various nutrients are produced during the process - vitamins, for instance - and harmful bacteria don't stand a chance."
How do you become the fermentation king of the Netherlands?
As a child, Christian was often found in his grandmother's kitchen. At twelve, he made an Indonesian rice table on his own for the first time and devoured cookbooks. "My father always made sauerkraut from his own vegetable garden. I wanted to know everything about it. You could say I was already captivated by fermenting back then. I've always kept that curiosity. I still don't take anything for granted. If someone says 'that's just how we do it,' I don't really believe in that and always go on a quest. I read a lot, scour the internet, and talk about it with others."
After a career as a creative director at a communications agency, he decided to use his creativity in another area: delicious and pure food. At least for a year. "That was fourteen years ago now," he laughs. As of 2023, he is not only an expert in fermentation and author of two culinary bestsellers ('Verrot Lekker' and 'Verrot Gezond'), but also founder of the fermentation festival ROTZOOI and creative director of the SmaakPark in Ede. There, he regularly gives workshops to specialists in the hospitality and food industry and collaborates with scientists from Wageningen University in his Foodlab to conduct research on sustainability. "Waste also has value," he says about it. "Actually, everything can be recycled and fermented. The drain liquid left over when you skim a beer, for example, we use to make beer vinegar. Otherwise, it would just be thrown away. Coffee grounds? A very nice base for soy sauce."
Everything we like is fermented
Christian concludes: "We almost never think about it, but many products we eat daily are fermented. Of course, we all know sauerkraut, yogurt, and soy sauce. But what about chocolate sprinkles? Cocoa beans must first be fermented to make - literally - chocolate. Your cheese platter with baguette at the drink, with a piece of dry sausage and olives? Your beer and your glass of wine? All fermented. Actually, everything we like is fermented."
